My London Fashion Week Mens: Day 1

Craig of That Dapper Chap takes us around the shows and presentations on day one of this seasons London Fashion Week Men’s

It doesn’t seem six months ago since I attended the last London Fashion Week Men’s (known previously at London Collections: Men) they say time flies when you’re having fun right!

So, on a grey and traditionally wet British Friday we made our way to 180 The Strand, the hub for the event, and began a hectic round of shows and presentations. Once again there were some amazing designers to see, ranging from the well known and well established to new and up and coming designers for whom this was their first outing.

PHOEBE ENGLISH MAN

Our LFWM kicked off with the Phoebe English Man presentation in the upper presentation space.

This season Phoebe brought us a relaxed capsule collection of functional separates with coats, jackets, wide legged trousers and joggers in natural fibres. A plus for me is that the entire collection is made right here in good old Blighty.

 

BARBOUR INTERNATIONAL

A highlight for me was the Barbour International show which was held this season at Royal Institute of British Architects in Portland Place.

Not only was it a great space, but there was a real buzz about the collection. A slightly different look and feel to what we’ve come to expect from Barbour, the Barbour International range is more young and edgy.

If you’re a keen motorcyclist you need to check out the range as it’s all about that aesthetic.

Another reason I was pleased that I attended as I finally got to meet Mr Rutherford along with JB from the band JLS and Joel Dommett; comedian and runner up on last seasons I’m a Celebrity.

HARRY’S OF LONDON

If you’re a fan of contemporary footwear or just a hoarder of great shoes you might just want to take a look at Harry’s of London.

Not only offering a beautiful range of formal and leisure shoes, Harry’s of London also offer a wide selection of accessories including bags, luggage and small leather goods.

Not only do their shoes look great but they are super comfortable, thanks to some ingenious technology in the form of Technogel which is built into each pair.

 

 

 

NIGEL CABOURN

I’m a fan of Nigel Cabourn and have been for some time. With a strong focus on heavy work wear and relaxed tailoring made from rich wool it’s a look that I really like.

The collection was once again very functional and durable, utilising fabrics as used by the military, robust fastenings and great detailing.

 

And that was it for day one. While we did have an invitation to Private White (another brand I love) we unfortunately couldn’t make it due to other commitments which was a real disappointment for me.

Thanks for stopping by and be sure to check back soon for the shows and presentations of day 2!

Nigel Cabourn at LC:M

That Dapper Chap views the SS16 collection by British designer Nigel Cabourn at the Army Gym store in London’s Covent Garden.

The six pocket Tenzing jacket £620

As anyone who knows me will testify, I have been a fan of vintage fashion for years. While I have not actively sought this particular stream of heritage style, I have admired it ever since I inadvertently discovered Instagrams AndDeath. His instagram account shows him wearing that military and japanese styling that Nigel Cabourn is a true expert at. There is something about the shapes, colours and fabrics that truly gets me excited.


About Nigel Cabourn

Hailed as a cult British designer, Nigel Cabourn has worked in the industry for over forty years producing collections, which are not influenced by ‘fashion’ trends but driven by inspirational stories of real people in history and vintage military, outdoor and work wear pieces.

The man himself Nigel Cabourn

A passionate and avid collector of vintage clothing since the late 70s – he has amassed an archive of over 4,000 pieces – unearthed from all corners of the globe. It is from this ever-increasing archive that Nigel draws inspiration for styles, fabrics and details to ensure that each collection has a real story, sense of history and integrity.

His aim to create a brand that celebrates the best of British has been realised with his Authentic line, launched in 2003, which uses quality heritage fabrics and is produced in British factories to the highest standards and craftmanship.

Pieces from the Authentic and Classics ranges

The Mainline Collection, designed by Nigel and manufactured in Japan, is driven by his appreciation of innovative Japanese fabrics and production techniques, yet still complimenting the philosophy of the Authentic Collection.

To this day, Nigel remains the hands-on driving force behind the Nigel Cabourn brands – Authentic and Mainline – working closely with his design and production teams and various collaborators to produce around 18 collections each year.


The SS16 Collection at LC:M

London yacht chandler, Arthur Beale is collaborating with menswear designer, Nigel Cabourn, to bring his naval themed LCM show to life with the loan of historic memorabilia including vintage ropes, ship’s bells and wooden boxes.

At the event Nigel cabourn unveiled three SS16 collections: his British made Authentic range, his Japanese Mainline collection, and a new ‘work wear’ label called Lybro X Nigel Cabourn.

Beautifully crafted naval inspired jackets

The SS16 collections pay homage to the British and US navy and in particular to the WW2 Atlantic convoys – when the two countries joined together in an alliance to combat enemy planes, ships and submarines.

Inside the Army Gym store in Covent Garden, London
Womenswear also featured at the event

The Authentic and Mainline collections take inspiration from garments worn by Naval officers and Lybro X Nigel cabourn from uniforms and work wear worn by sailors and workers at the time.

Classic Authentic styles such as the Cameraman, Mallory, Aircraft jackets are all given a naval twist through fabrics and colours used and the Surface jacket has been reintroduced especially for this season.

Guests enjoying the Nigel Cabourn event
Quirky decorations hang alongside Nigels pieces 
Work wear in navy fabrics

Fabrics for this Authentic collection include officers ‘sateen’ Japanese canvas, hopsack denim, carded jersey, indigo pinwale, bonded nylon, and cotton poplin resin. Naval colours such as black navy, blue, grey, off white, denim and chambray all feature throughout. 

For Mainline the collection is inspired more from US navy influences in styles but with Japanese fabrics used throughout. Raw indigo denim and army green feature, as well as a mix of cotton denim and herringbone, chambray, cotton oxfords and jerseys.

A close up of the detail on this jacket
Models show off the latest styles

The first full Lybro X Nigel Cabourn features work wear jackets, wide leg pants, naval dungarees, worker shirts and matching ties and caps. Colours include black navy, work blue, denim, chambray, grey, stone and white. 

Also included in the Lybro collection is a range of functional ‘army gym’ jersey sweats, which take inspiration from military sportswear used for basic training in WW2.

Mr David Gandy discussing designs with Nigel Cabourn

The introduction of a dedicated work wear collection is something the designer has been planning for a number of years and has a history behind it. 

Nigel Cabourn says

 “As a fashion student in 1970 I entered and won a national competition sponsored by Lybro, to design a work wear overall. Hence the name always meant something to me. Then by chance, about five years ago, I came across three vintage wooden Lybro advertising boards from the 40s-50s – when the Liverpool-based company was one of the most important work wear brands in the UK”


Yours truly with Mr Nigel Cabourn

“Anyway I brought the Lybro boards because I’m sentimental and when I looked to see if the company was still in existence I was staggered to find it was defunct and available to buy ‘off the shelf’, which I did straight away”

Made using British and Japanese fabrics like heavy industrial canvas and drill, Japanese raw denim, pinwale aged cord, rubber ball washed sateen, heavy sweat and aged T-shirting, this Lybro X Nigel Cabourn has been produced in Hong Kong and Portugal. 

inside the Army Gym store

Close up detailing

More of the SS16 collection from Nigel Cabourn

Nigel Cabourn said:

“One of the original Lybro slogans was ‘into a Lybro – on with the job’ I love this as it captures what work wear should be all about. I’m a big supporter of British manufacturing but in order to produce a great work wear collection using the best British and Japanese fabrics and trims, which is competitively priced to comparable brands such as Engineered Garments and MHL, I’ve had to take production off shore”


All collections will be available to buy at The Army Gym, 28 Henrietta St, Covent Garden, London and as www.Cabourn.com and various stockists from Spring 2016.

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